Among the 115 islands of the Seychelles you will find the luxuriant, tropical paradise that appears in countless advertisements and glossy travel brochures. But however seductive the images, they simply can't compete with the real-life dazzling beaches and crystal-clear waters.

There are more shades of blue and green in the Seychelles than it is possible to imagine. Forming a backdrop to the relaxed tropical image of the Seychelles are the rhythms, colours and flavours of Africa and gris gris, the local brand of black magic.

When To Go
You should plan your trip to the Seychelles around what you want to do. Windsurfing and sailing are best at the start and end of the trade winds, usually around May and October. Some beaches are better during the monsoon season, others during the trade winds. Diving is best in March to May and September to November. Hotel prices shoot up and accommodation can be hard to find during the peak seasons from December to January and July to August. Easter can also get busy.

Weather Overview
The Seychelles' seasons are defined by the trade winds. These blow from the northwest from October to April, bringing warm, wet weather. From May to September the southeast trades usher in cooler, drier weather but the winds whip up the waves and you'll want to find protected beaches. The turnaround periods (March through April and October through November) are normally calm and windless. The annual temperature range fluctuates between 24°C (75°F) and 31°C (88°F) and the humidity sweats at around 80%.

The rain generally comes in sudden, heavy bursts. January is the wettest month, and mountainous Mahé and Silhouette get the most rainfall. July and August are the driest. Although the Seychelles lies outside the cyclone zone, cyclone activity elsewhere in the Indian Ocean can still bring unseasonably grey, windy weather between December and March.

Geography
The Seychelles is a group of about 115 islands which lie 1600km (990mi) off the coast of east Africa. The three central islands - Mahé, Praslin and La Digue - are granite, while the outlying islands are coral atolls. Unlike most similar islands, the Seychelles are not volcanic - they seem to be the peaks of a huge underwater plateau that was torn away from Africa.

Visas Overview
Visas are not required for visitors to Seychelles, but you'll need an onward ticket, booked accommodation and sufficient funds for your stay - a one month Visitor's Permit (extendable on application) will be issued. On departure a SR58 'Passenger Service Fee' is levied on all adult visitors; this fee is included in the price of the airline ticket

Overview
There is no indigenous culture in the Seychelles as such, but aspects of African origin have survived. The government has formed the National School of Music and the National Cultural Troupe to foster a cultural identity and tradition. You'll glimpse aspects of it by eating the delicious, seafood-heavy cuisine, dancing the moutia or seeking out a love potion.

Granitic Islands
Mahé
Surrounded by coral reefs, this is the largest of the islands and hosts the international airport, the port and capital (Victoria), the majority of the population (90 per cent) and most of the hotels. It is an island of powdery white sands (there are almost 70 beaches on Mahé alone) and lush vegetation, rising through plantations of coconut palms and cinnamon to forested peaks that afford unparalleled views of neighboring islands. Excursions can be made in glass-bottomed boats from Victoria to nearby St Anne Marine National Park, which encloses the islands of St Anne, Beacon (classified as a nature reserve), Cerf (offering accommodation in chalets and renowned for Creole food), Long (closed to the public), Round (reputed for its tuna steaks) and Moyenne (privately owned, but open to visiting tourists); or by coach, taking in such attractions as the market, the Botanical Gardens (with coco-de-mer, giant tortoises and orchids), and a replica of London’s Vauxhall Bridge Tower in Victoria, before setting off around the island to visit colonial-style mansions in graceful decline, old plantations of cinnamon and vanilla, and everywhere the greenest of vibrant green jungles. Tourists may also visit the Morne Seychellois National Park, occupying the highest part of the island. The National Museum in Victoria celebrates Seychellois history, folklore and music, and has particularly fine displays depicting the history of spice cultivation.

Elsewhere
The other Granitic Islands, 41 of them, are all located within 65km (40 miles) of Mahé. Some of the more notable islands are described below.
PRASLIN: The second-largest island is two to three hours by boat or 15 minutes by air (25 scheduled flights per day) from Mahé. It is famous for the Vallée de Mai, another UNESCO World Heritage Site, which contains the double-nutted coco-de-mer palm. Regular excursions are available to smaller islands such as Aride, Cousin, Curieuse and La Digue.
LA DIGUE: Just over three hours by schooner from Mahé or 30 minutes from Praslin, this beautiful island is the breeding ground of the rare black paradise flycatcher. There are very few cars and the ox-cart remains the principal means of transport (although bicycles may be hired). There are beautiful old plantation houses, such as Château Saint-Cloud, as well as a vanilla plantation, copra factories and superb beaches.
FREGATE: The most easterly and isolated of the granitic islands, Frégate is associated with pirates (Ian Fleming was obsessed with the notion that a pirate’s hoard was buried here). It is also the home of the almost extinct magpie robin. Frégate is 15 minutes by air from Mahé.
THÉRÈSE: Notable for its rock-pools and tortoise colony. Accessible from Port Glaud by a five-minute boat trip.
COUSIN: Two hours by boat from Mahé, Cousin was bought (in 1968) by the International Council for Bird Protection, which operates it as a nature reserve. Amongst the rare bird species thus protected are the brush warbler, the Seychelles toc-toc and the fairy tern. The best time to visit is April or May, when 1.25 million birds nest on the island. All visits to the island must be made as part of an organized tour. Local rangers act as guides; a full tour of the island takes between one and two hours. Local operators can arrange these trips, usually in conjunction with visits to other islands.
ARIDE: Two hours from Mahé, Aride is the most northerly of the granitic islands. Home to vast colonies of seabirds, in 1973 it was bought by Christopher Cadbury, President of the Royal Society for Nature Conservation. It is open to visitors from October to the end of April.
CURIEUSE: Approximately 3km (2 miles) long, Curieuse is covered by lush vegetation and huge takamaka trees. It has been designated a reserve for giant tortoises (imported from Aldabra). Day trips may be arranged from Praslin.
SILHOUETTE: Thought to have been home to one of the Indian Ocean’s most notorious pirates, Hodoul, this island may be seen from Beau Vallon Beach on Mahé. It has a population of about 200. Sights include an old plantation house of traditional Seychellois timber construction.

Coralline Islands
ALDABRA: The world’s largest atoll, home to 150,000 giant land tortoises (reputedly five times more than on the Galapagos Islands) and listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site, consists of 13 islands which make up about one-third of the Seychelles’ land mass. Until recently Aldabra was only accessible by boat, but Assumption Island, in the south of the atoll, now has an airstrip. Aldabra remains under strict supervision of the Seychelles Island Foundation which, nevertheless, intends to open it to a controlled number of visitors.
DENIS: Five to seven hours by boat or 30 minutes by air from Mahé, Denis is also on the edge of the continental shelf and attracts many deep-sea fishermen. Marlin may be caught from October to December. The island’s seabird population has, over the years, left rich deposits of guano, which has encouraged the growth of lush vegetation. The minimum stay is two days.
BIRD: Six to eight hours by boat or 30 minutes by plane from Mahé, this island is famous for the millions of sooty terns that migrate here to breed between May and September. Its location at the edge of the Seychelles continental shelf (the sea floor drops rapidly to 2000m/5000ft) also makes it a favored destination for fishermen. Another claim to fame is Esmeralda, said to be 150 years old and the largest tortoise in the world.
DESROCHES: The largest of the Amirantes archipelago, Desroches is 193km (120 miles) southwest of Mahé (one hour by air). The surrounding coral reef keeps the coastal waters calm and makes it an ideal destination for those seeking watersports. Although Desroches was only recently developed as a resort, there are facilities for water-skiing, windsurfing, sailing, fishing and scuba-diving; water scooters may also be hired. The diving is particularly good: there are sea cliffs, tunnels and caves – and, of course, multitudes of fish of many different species. Lessons are available. Visibility is best from September to May. Accommodation is in 20 chalets set amongst casuarina trees and coconut palms.

Plants and wildlife
As a result of their extraordinary, isolated history, the Seychelles are rich in rare plants which flourish nowhere else on the planet. 81 species are unique survivors from the luxuriant tropical forests that covered the islands until humanity’s belated arrival two centuries ago. Outstanding amongst these is the coco-de-mer (sea coconut), native to Praslin, which grows in the Vallée de Mai. Its seed is the largest in nature, and gave rise to many legends when it was washed ashore on the coasts of Africa, India and Indonesia. Since the islands were unknown, the nuts were thought to have grown under the sea – hence the name. Among the many orchids is the vanilla, once widely cultivated for the essence produced from its aromatic pods. Its ornate leaves and lovely flowers make a wonderful display. It is not, however, necessary to travel the length and breadth of the islands to see interesting plants, as many of them can be viewed in Victoria’s Botanical Gardens. The Seychelles are also a major attraction for birdwatchers. Millions of terns nest on the islands – among them that most beautiful of seabirds, the fairy tern. Up to two million sooty terns nest on Bird Island, and on Aride can be found the world’s largest colonies of lesser noddies, roseate terns and other tropical birds. Some species, on the other hand, are less well represented and are rare almost to the point of extinction. The paradise flycatcher has dwindled to some 30 pairs on one island, La Digue. The Seychelles magpie robin is confined to Frégate, the black parrot to Praslin and the melodious brush warbler to Cousin.
It was only some 20 years ago that active conservation of endangered species began in the Seychelles. Since then, with the establishment of island sanctuaries and nature reserves, much has been done to make the Seychelles a paradise for birds – and for those who love to watch them.

Watersports
Coral reef diving is possibly the main sporting attraction in the Seychelles. Spearfishing is forbidden and, perhaps as a consequence, the fish are not afraid of people. The clear water makes conditions perfect for underwater photography. The coastal waters are a haven for 100 species of coral and over 900 species of fish. The annual Subios underwater festival is held in the Seychelles over a three-week period in November and attracts underwater experts from all over the world. Snorkeling is also very popular, with many snorkeling spots conveniently close to the beaches; most of the larger hotels rent out snorkeling equipment. A favorite location for snorkeling is the St Anne National Marine Park, which encompasses six islands off the coast of Mahé. Details about the Seychelles’ best dive sites are also available from the Seychelles Tourist Office (see General Info section). Game fishing is a comparatively new sport in the Seychelles, but the abundance of fish has already made the islands popular with enthusiasts. Fishing seasons are governed by weather conditions: from May to September, the trade winds blow from the southeast; and from November to February, from the northwest. Black, blue and striped marlin, sailfish, yellowfish and dogtooth tuna, wahoo and barracuda are just a few of the game fish found in these tropical waters. Power boats, cabin cruisers and yachts are available for charter for anglers and others wishing to explore the islands at their own pace. Vessels may be booked in advance by the day, week or month. Reservations may be made at local agents or through The Marine Charter Association, PO Box 204, Victoria, Mahé (tel: 224 679; fax: 322 126; e-mail: mca@seychelles.net; website: www.seychelles.net/mca). The best spots for salt water fly fishing are Alphonse and Desroches island.
Windsurfers, canoes and sailing dinghies may be hired on the more popular beaches, such as Beau Vallon Bay on Mahé, and water-skiing and paragliding are available at many other resort areas. Equipment may be hired.

Other
A new 18-hole golf course has recently been opened on Praslin at the Lemuria Hotel (contact the Seychelles Tourist Office for details; see General Info section).
There are also opportunities for squash, tennis and badminton. Organized hiking and walking tours are available to explore the islands’ flora and fauna; some of the best trails are on Aride, Mahé, Praslin and Silhouette.

Location
Indian Ocean, 1600km (990 miles) east of Kenya.

Area
455.3 sq km (176 sq miles).

Population
81,100 (official estimate 2005).

Population Density
177.7 per sq km.

Capital
Victoria (Mahé).
Population: 71,000 (2005).

Government
Republic since 1976. Gained independence from the UK in 1975.
Recent history: In April 2004, after more than a quarter of a century in power, Albert René retired and handed presidency over to his vice-president, James Michel. Michel promised to introduce a more open dialog, particularly over economic matters, and to involve the private sector in the national economy. Michel was re-elected in the July 2006.

Language
Creole, English and French.

Religion
83 per cent Roman Catholic with Anglican, Seventh Day Adventist, Muslim, Baha’i and other minorities.

Time
GMT + 4.

Electricity
240 volts AC, 50Hz. British three-pin plugs are in use.

Head of State
President James Alix Michel since 2004.

Telephone
IDD is available. Country code: 248. Phonecards are available. SEYTELS offers a 24-hour service for telegrams, telephones and faxes via SEYTELS/Cable & Wireless Ltd, Francis Rachel Street, Victoria, Mahé.

Mobile Telephone
Roaming agreements exist with some international mobile phone companies.

Internet
There are several internet cafes on Mahe. Most of the larger hotels have arrangements for visitors to obtain a temporary guest account.

Media
The government controls much of the islands’ media, and operates the only radio and TV stations and the sole daily newspaper.


Post
The main post office is in Victoria. Airmail collections are at 1500 weekdays and 1200 Saturdays; airmail to Western Europe normally takes up to one week. Post office hours: Mon-Fri 0800-1600, Sat 0800-1200.

Press
Seychelles Nation is an English-language newspaper (morning daily except on Sundays); Regar is an opposition weekly publication.

Social Conventions
The people live a simple and unsophisticated island life and tourism is carefully controlled to protect the unspoilt charm of the islands. Before the international airport opened in 1971, the islands could be reached only by sea, and since they are miles from anywhere, visitors were few and far between and the people were little influenced by the outside world. They developed their own language and culture which – like so many things on the islands – are unique. Shaking hands is the customary form of greeting. The Seychellois are very hospitable and welcome guests into their homes. When visiting someone’s home, a gift is acceptable. A mixture of imperial and metric systems operates. For example, petrol is dispensed in liters, whilst bars sell bottled and draught beer in half-pint measures. Casual wear is essential and formal clothes are only worn by churchgoers. Swimwear should only be worn on the beaches.

International Travel:

Getting There by Air
The national airline is Air Seychelles (HM) (website: www.airseychelles.co.uk).

Departure Tax
None.

Main Airports
Mahé Island (SEZ) (Seychelles International) is 10km (6 miles) southeast from Victoria (journey time – 20 minutes). To/from the airport: Some coach services are provided by agents and taxis are available. Facilities: Duty-free shop, banking and currency exchange facilities, car hire and restaurant/bar.

Getting There by Water
Cruise and cargo ships call at Mahé but there are no scheduled passenger services.

Overview
The following items may be imported into the Seychelles by persons of 18 years or older without incurring customs duty:
400 cigarettes or 500g of tobacco; 2l of spirits or 2l of wine; 200ml of perfume or eau de toilette; other items not exceeding SCR3000; one video camera and one camera; musical instrument; portable electronic or electric equipment; sports requisites and other leisure equipment.

The import of non-prescribed drugs and all firearms, including air pistols, air rifles and spearfishing guns, and plants and plant products, animals and animal products, radioactive substances and apparatus, dangerous drugs, biological specimens, fireworks and explosives, medicines and poisons are prohibited, unless prior authorization has been granted. Video tapes must be declared and may be retained for security reasons. The import of animals and food and other agricultural produce is strictly controlled and subject to licensing.

Shells, unprocessed coco-de-mer, processed or live fish and live tortoises may not be exported.

Internal Travel:

Getting Around By Air
Air Seychelles provides an efficient network of scheduled and chartered services from Mahé to Alphonse, Bird, Denis, Desroches Islands, Frégate and Praslin. Helicopter (Seychelles) Ltd (tel: 385 858; website: www.helicopterseychelles.com) provides an inter-island shuttle service and scenic flights. Charter flights can be arranged from any heli-stop.

Getting Around by Water
Privately owned schooners provide regular inter-island connections between Mahé, Praslin and La Digue. Boats can be chartered privately to get to the other islands.

Getting Around by Road
Traffic drives on the left. There are paved roads only on La Digue, Mahé and Praslin; elsewhere the roads are sandy tracks. Visitors should be aware that Mahé is mountainous with narrow, winding roads, rarely with safety barriers. Bus: SPTC buses run on a regular basis on Mahé and Praslin from 0520-2130 (Mon-Sun). There are a number of 18-seater coaches for airport transfers and excursions. Prices for buses and coaches are very reasonable. Taxi: There are about 300 independently operated taxis on Mahé and Praslin, with a handful on La Digue, with Government-controlled rates. There is a surcharge for taxi fares on Praslin between 2200-0600. Car hire: There are over 550 cars or Mini Mokes for hire on Mahé, and a limited number on Praslin. It is advisable to make advance reservations, especially in the high season. Conditions of hire and insurance should be carefully checked. Hire is on an unlimited mileage basis and the price includes Third Party insurance and tax. Minimum age is 21. Petrol is approximately a third more expensive than in Europe. Bicycles may be hired on La Digue and Praslin. Traffic regulations: There is a speed limit of 65kph (40mph) on the open road, decreasing to 40kph (25mph) in built-up areas and throughout Praslin. Documentation: A national driving license is sufficient, for up to three months.

Local handicrafts include work with textiles (such as batik), fibers (such as basketwares, table-mats and hats) and wood (such as traditional furniture, ornaments and model boats). Pottery and paintings may also be bought. Special souvenirs might include jewelry made from green snail shells. Tea-growing and manufacturing in the Seychelles is done on a small scale. Local tea can be bought in the shops or when visiting the tea factory on Mahé, where many blends of tea may be sampled at the Tea Tavern. Vanilla is cultivated as a climbing plant around the base of trees as it can be pollinated by hand. Pods can be bought in shops and used as flavoring. Cinnamon grows wild on all the islands. It can be bought as oil or in quills made from dried bark which can be freshly grated before use.

Shopping hours
Mon-Fri 0800-1700, Sat 0800-1200. Some shops close weekdays 1200-1300.

Currency Information:

Currency
Seychelles Rupee (SCR) = 100 cents. Notes are in denominations of SCR100, 50, 25 and 10. Coins are in denominations of SCR5 and 1, and 25, 10 and 5 cents.

Note: Tourists must pay hotel bills in foreign currency (in the form of cash, traveller’s cheques or credit or debit cards). Payment in local currency is only allowed if an exchange receipt can be shown as proof of the conversion from foreign currency into local currency. The duty-free shop at the airport only accepts credit cards or foreign cash.

Currency Exchange
Exchange facilities are available at the airport banks, which are open for all flight departures and arrivals. The following banks have branches in the Seychelles and will exchange traveller’s cheques and foreign currency: Barclays Bank, Bank of Baroda, Banque Française Commerciale, Central Bank of Seychelles, Development Bank of Seychelles, Habib Bank Ltd, Nouvo Banq and Seychelles Savings Bank. Currency exchange receipts should be kept in order to facilitate re-exchange on departure.

Credit/Debit Cards and ATMs
American Express, MasterCard and Visa are widely accepted; Diners Club has more limited use. ATMs are available in Mahé and Praslin.

Traveller's Cheques
Accepted in most hotels, guest houses, restaurants and shops. To avoid additional exchange rate charges, travelers are advised to take traveller’s cheques in US Dollars or Pounds Sterling.

Banking Hours
Mon-Fri 0830-1430, Sat 0830-1100.

Passport/Visa