You've trusted your eyes your whole life, but visit Cambodia and you just may start doubting them.
How else to explain the unthinkable splendour of the 9th- to 13th-century Khmer temples, the tropical islands with barely a beach hut in sight and the untold adventures lurking in northern forests?
Cambodia promises a rollercoaster of emotions and experiences to the intrepid traveller. Your heart will race at Angkor Wat, one of the world's greatest achievements, only to haltingly derail when faced with the impact of humankind's darkest moments. After two decades of war and isolation, only now is Cambodia truly starting to recover from the Khmer Rouge's genocidal 1975-79 rule.
When To Go The ideal months to be in Cambodia are December and January, when humidity is bearable, temperatures are cooler and it's unlikely to rain. From early February temperatures start to rise until the killer month, April, when temperatures often exceed 40°C (104°F). Come May and June, the southwestern monsoon brings rain and high humidity, cooking up a sweat for all but the hardiest of visitors.
The wet season (May-Oct), though very soggy, can be a good time to visit Angkor, as the moats will be full and the foliage lush - but steer clear of the northeast regions during those months, as the going gets pretty tough when the tracks are waterlogged.
The country's biggest festival, Bon Om Tuk, is held in early November, and is well worth catching. Others you might like to plan around include the water festival in Phnom Penh, or Khmer New Year.
Weather Overview From December to April the climate in Cambodia is at its driest with abundant sunshine and temperatures often reaching 40ºC (104ºF) in April, the hottest month. The humid southwestern monsoon from May to October sees rain fall mostly in the afternoon, accounting for 70-80% of annual rainfall. The highest temperatures around this time average just above the 30ºC mark (around 88ºF).
Geography Cambodia is bounded on the west by Thailand, on the north by Laos, on the east by Vietnam and to the south by the Gulf of Thailand. It's about half the size of Vietnam or Italy. Topographically, the country is dominated by the mighty MekongRiver, which cuts a swathe through the country from north to south; the fish-filled Tonlé Sap (GreatLake); the Elephant and Cardamom mountains in the southwest; the DangkrekMountains along the Thai border; and the Eastern Highlands in the northeast. Most Cambodians live on the fertile central plains of the Mekong-Tonlé basin.
The average Cambodian landscape is a patchwork of cultivated rice paddies guarded by numerous sugar palms, the national tree. Elsewhere are grasslands, lush rainforest cloaking the remote areas and, at higher elevations, unlikely clumps of pines.
Visas Overview A one-month visa, available on arrival at Phnom Penh and Siem Reap airports, costs CR20 for a tourist visa and CR25 for a business visa.
Overview The Khmer Rouge's assault on the arts was a terrible blow to Cambodian culture. Indeed, for a number of years the common consensus among Khmers was that their culture had been irrevocably lost. The Khmer Rouge not only did away with living bearers of Khmer culture, it also destroyed cultural artefacts, statues, musical instruments, books and anything else that served as a reminder of a past it was trying to efface. The temples of Angkor were spared as a symbol of Khmer glory and empire, but little else survived. Despite this, Cambodia is witnessing a resurgence of traditional arts and a growing interest in experimentation in modern arts and cross-cultural fusion. A trip to the Royal University of Fine Arts in Phnom Penh is evidence of the extent to which Khmer culture has bounced back.Since the ousting of the Pol Pot regime, many aspects of Khmer cultural life have revived. The famed National Ballet has been re-established by the surviving dancers and performs classical dances for visiting groups. Buddhist temples, such as Preah Vihear, close to the border with Thailand in the Dongrek mountains, have re-opened and are the sites of various celebrations, especially during the Cambodian New Year. The interrogation center of the Pol Pot regime in Phnom Penh is now the chilling Toul Sleng Museum of Genocide, also called S-21 (security office 21). Other attractions in the capital are the RoyalPalace, with its famous Silver Pagoda (whose floor consists of 5000 silver tiles), and the recently restored NationalMuseum (which includes bronze and stone sculptures from the Angkor period). River cruises, some also now offering dolphin watching, operate on the Mekong and Tonle Sap rivers near the capital. The famous and magnificent temples at Angkor, in the country’s northwest, are hard and dangerous to reach by road, but may be reached by regular flights from Phnom Penh, Ho Chi Minh City, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Bangkok. This ancient and astounding temple complex is what remains of the capital of the once mighty Khmer civilization. Angkor Wat itself, built AD 879-1191 to honor the Hindu god Vishnu, is often hailed as one of the most extraordinary architectural creations ever built, with its intricate bas reliefs, strange acoustics and magnificent soaring towers. Oudong, 30km (19 miles) from Phnom Penh, is located on a hill overlooking vast plains and is famous for the burial chedis of the Khmer kings. Tonle Bati, 42km (26 miles) from Phnom Penh, is located near a lake close to the ancient temple of Ta Phrom. The Preah Vihear temple, in the Preah Vihear province and on the border with Thailand, is now open to members of the public. The temple is a fine example of Khmer architecture from the 12th century. For more information, contact the Ministry of Tourism (see General Info section). Sihanoukville is a popular beach resort town and may be reached by bus or air from Phnom Penh
River tours Trips on the Mekong and Tonle Sap rivers are becoming increasingly popular, one highlight being the opportunity to see Cambodia’s famous freshwater dolphins near Kratié.
Trekking There are still many thousands of unexploded landmines in more remote areas of Cambodia. Trekking is therefore still fairly limited, though some marked routes are available around Ratanakiri. In rural areas, travelers are strongly advised to seek local advice and not stray from the main paths. There is also the opportunity for elephant rides in Ratanakiri and Mondulkiri, although once again, a tour guide is needed.
Watersports A range of watersports, including swimming, is available at Sihanoukville. Snorkeling is also good in this location.Location South-East Asia.
Area 181,035 sq km (69,900 sq miles).
Population 14.8 million (UN estimate 2005).
Population Density 81.7 per sq km.
Capital Phnom Penh. Population: 1.17 million (2005).
Government Constitutional monarchy since 1993.
Language Khmer is the official language and spoken by 95% of the population. Chinese and Vietnamese are also spoken. French was widely spoken until the arrival of the Pol Pot regime and is still taught in schools, but English is now a more popular language to learn among the younger generation.
Religion 95% Buddhist (Theravada), the remainder Muslim and Christian. Buddhism was reinstated as the national religion in 1989 after a ban on religious activity in 1975.
Time GMT + 7.
Electricity 220 volts AC, 50Hz. Two-pin plugs are in use. Power cuts are frequent.
Head of Government Prime Minister Hun Sen since 1998.
Head of State King Norodom Sihamoni since 2004.
Telephone Country code: 855. Prepaid telephone cards are available in post offices, hotels and shops for public phones around Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.
Mobile Telephone Roaming agreements exist with many international mobile phone companies. Coverage is good in major towns and cities and patchy elsewhere.
Internet Available in some areas. Internet cafes are available in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and other major towns.
Media Much of Cambodia’s media depends on support from political parties. Press freedom is not guaranteed but Prime Minister Hun Sen has declared his public support for press freedom. There are no restrictions on satellite dish ownership and neighboring foreign radio broadcasts are easily received.
Post Airmail to Europe takes at least a week, and longer to the USA. The main post office in Phnom Penh is located on the western side of 13 Street between 98 Street and 102 Street, open 0630-2100.
Post office hours: Generally Mon-Fri 0730/0800-1700/1730, sometimes closed for lunch.
Press • Cambodia Daily and the Phnom Penh Post (fortnightly) and are printed in English. • There are also a few pro-government dailies. • The French-language Cambodge Soir is published twice a week.Social Conventions Sensitivity to politically-related subjects in conversation is advisable. Avoid pointing your foot at a person or touching someone on the head. Women should keep their shoulders covered and not wear shorts when visiting pagodas. Photography: Permitted, with certain restrictions, such as the photographing of military installations, airports and railway stations. It is polite to ask permission before photographing Cambodian people, especially monks.
Departure Tax US$25 levied on international departures at Phnom Penh and Siem Reap; US$13 for children under 12. Children less than 2 years of age are exempt.
MainAirports Phnom PenhInternationalAirport (PNH)(website: www.cambodia-airports.com/phnompenh/en) is 10km (6 miles) from Phnom Penh.To/from the airport: Taxis and motorbike taxis to the city are available (journey time - 10 minutes). For pre-arranged tours a pick-up service is available. Facilities: Left luggage, bureaux de change, shops, duty-free, post office and light refreshments.
SiemReapInternationalAirport (REP)(website: www.cambodia-airports.com/siemreap/en) is 8km (5 miles) from Siem Reap. To/from the airport: Taxis and motorbike taxis to Siem Reap are available (journey time - 7 to 10 minutes). For pre-arranged tours a pick-up service is available. Facilities: Left luggage, bureau de change, shops and light refreshments.
Getting There by Water Main ports:Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville.Phnom Penh can be reached via the Mekong Delta through Vietnam. This route is served by regular passenger ferry services from Chau Doc in Vietnam and can be booked through travel agencies or at the dock. Sihanoukvilleis reached from Thailand through the border crossing at Hat Lek and the boat from Koh Kong. Tickets can be purchased at the dock in Sihanoukville.
Getting There by Road The Thai and Vietnamese borders are open for overland access. The main highway links the capital with the Vietnam border. Border checkpoints include Poipet, Cham Yeam, O’Smach, Anlong Veng and Psar Prom (Thailand), Bavet, Kaam Samnor and Phnom Den (Vietnam). The border with Laos at Stung Treng is currently closed so travelers should check the situation as it changes regularly. Cross-border bus services are from Ho Chi Minh City in Vietnam operated by Phnom Penh Sorya TransportCompany (tel: (23) 210 359).
Note: It is possible to drive from Phnom Penh to Ho Chi Minh City in a day but there are formalities involved regarding the use of the same vehicle all the way. Right-hand drive vehicles (quite common in Cambodia) are not allowed entry to Vietnam. Vietnamese visas must be obtained in advance but Cambodian visas can be obtained at the border.
Overview The following goods may be imported into Cambodia without incurring customs duty: 200 cigarettes or equivalent in tobacco; reasonable amount of perfume for personal use.
Note: Currency must be declared.
Internal Travel:
Getting Around By Air Internal flights operate between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap for Angkor (journey time - 45 minutes). The main domestic carriers are Siem Reap Airways International (website: www.siemreapairways.com) and PMT Air (website: www.pmtair.com). Battambang, Sihanoukville, Banlung, Sen Monorom and Stung Treng all have airports, but at the time of writing there are only flights to Banlung from Phnom Penh.
Domestic airports: The upgraded Siem Reap Airport, the main gateway for visitors going to see the ancient temples at Angkor, is a 7- to 10-minute taxi ride from the city. Departure tax: US$60 for foreign nationals.
Getting Around by Water Government-run ferries depart from the Psar Cha Ministry of Transport Ferry Landing between 102 and 104 Streets and go to Siem Reap, a route popular with travelers. Tickets can be bought in person at the dock or through a travel agent. Travel can be difficult in the dry season when the water level is very low and often boat services are suspended.
Getting Around by Rail There are only two lines in Cambodia from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville and Battambang. Visitors are not encouraged to use the trains and as they take much longer than the buses, and only hard class is available, it is not recommended. Currently there is only a weekly train from Phnom Penh to Battambang on Saturdays (journey time - 12 hours) and none to Sihanoukville. Tickets can only be bought in person on the day of travel.
Getting Around by Road Traffic drives on the right. Roads vary from excellent to very poor and there are numbered routes from Phnom Penh with Route 1 leading to the Vietnamese border. Care should be taken while driving as accidents are relatively frequent. Other vehicles cannot always be relied on to use headlights at night. Given the predominant use of motorcycles for urban public transportation, travelers should ensure that any insurance policies provide coverage for riding as a driver or passenger. Cattle often stray onto the roads. In Siem Reap, the local police have banned rental outlets from hiring motorcycles to tourists because of the high number of accidents. Coach/bus: Long-distance buses operated by Phnom Penh Sorya Transport Company (tel: (23) 210 359) travel to destinations such as Kampot, Sihanoukville, Battambang and Siem Reap. Car hire: It is really only possible to hire a car with a driver. Car hire can be arranged by private negotiation with a taxi waiting outside the hotels or through tour operators. Taxi: Taxis can be hired in main cities, although they are not metered so the price has to be fixed in advance. Tips are appreciated. Regulations: The wearing of seat belts is not compulsory. Documentation: An International Driving Permit is not recognized in Cambodia, and as car hire does not exist, visitors are advised to hire a car with a driver.
Getting Around Towns and Cities There are no public buses in Phnom Penh or Siem Reap. Taxis wait outside hotels and restaurants but, as they are unmetered, the fare should be fixed before leaving. Cyclos (tricycles) or motodops (motorcycle taxis) are an efficient and inexpensive way to get around and some of the drivers, especially those found outside main hotels, speak a little French or English. Siem Reap also has motorized tuk tuks.
Note: In terms of the greatest risks (particularly in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and Sihanoukville), the greatest danger faced by visitors is from road traffic accidents, armed robbery after dark, bag snatching and landmines. Cambodian artisans are very skilled and there is no shortage of articles to buy. Unique to Cambodia is the krama, a checked scarf made of cotton or silk. Silk is still handwoven in Cambodia and is a ‘must buy’ either as lengths of material or in the form of scarves, bags or purses. Silver boxes are traditional souvenirs, many in the shape of animals, which were either used in ceremonies or to hold betel leaves. Visitors are advised that there are strict controls on the export of antiques - and stone carvings in particular. The markets in Cambodia are always a great source of souvenirs. Try the Central Market, in Phnom Penh, which is well worth a visit as it sells clothes, gifts and gems. Gems are a particularly good buy for small stones, but only spend large amounts if you know what you are buying. The Russian Market (Psar Toul Tom Poung) is crammed with stalls holding a vast selection of bargain souvenirs including clothing, silverware, jewelry, silk, bags, DVDs, CDs and ceramics, as is the Old Market in Siem Reap. Bargaining is expected in the markets, which are open daily from around 0700 to 1700 hours. Look out for shops selling handicrafts to raise money for disadvantaged Cambodians.
Shopping hours Daily 0800-2000.
Currency Information:
Currency Riel (KHR; symbol CR). Notes are in denominations of CR100,000, 50,000, 20,000, 10,000, 5,000, 2,000, 1,000, 500, 200 and 100.
Currency Exchange US Dollars are widely accepted and exchanged as are Thai Baht close to the Thai border, but other currencies are generally only recognized at banks. There is no need to change money into Riels.
Credit/Debit Cards and ATMs Credit cards are now more widely accepted in upmarket hotels, shops and restaurants catering to visitors. There are ATMs in Phnom Penh, Siem Reap and Sihanoukville. It is always best to carry cash (US Dollars if necessary) in small denominations.
Traveller's Cheques Limited acceptance. Traveller’s cheques are generally not recommended. Traveller’s cheques in US Dollars can be changed at banks and some hotels, but can be difficult to change outside major cities.
Banking Hours Mon-Fri 0800-1500. Some banks are open on Saturdays until 1200. Passport/Visa
Passport Required?
Visa Required?
Return Ticket Required?
British
Yes
Yes
No
Australian
Yes
Yes
No
Canadian
Yes
Yes
No
USA
Yes
Yes
No
Other EU
Yes
Yes
No
Passports Passport valid for at least four months after date of return from Cambodia required by all nationals of countries referred to in chart above.
Visas Required by all nationals of countries referred to in chart above.
Note: Visitors arriving by air can obtain a visa for stays of up to 30 days on arrival at Phnom Penh International Airport, Phnom Penh or Siem Reap International Airport, Angkor. Visas are also available from Immigration at the border posts of Bavet, Poi Pet and Koh Kong. Visitors are advised to check current situation before traveling. E-Visas are only valid for entry via Phnom Penh International Airport, Phnom Penh or Siem Reap International Airport, Angkor.
Note: Nationals not referred to in the chart above are advised to contact the embassy to check visa requirements (see General Info).
Visa Note Applications by post will only be accepted through a recognized visa courier. For further details, contact the nearest consulate (or consular section of embassy).
Types of Visa and Cost Tourist (single-entry): £15 (£30 for express); Business (single-entry): £25 (£40 for express); Transit: £10 (£20 for express); E-Visa: additional US$5. Express visas are issued within 24 hours.
Validity All visas are valid for a one month period, and visas issued by the embassy must be used within three months of date of issue. Extensions of up to one extra month for Tourist visas or six or 12 months for Business visas (which can be multiple) may be granted by the Ministry of the Interior at the Immigration Office in Phnom Penh.
Applications to: Consulate (or consular section of embassy); see General Info.
Visitors can also apply for an electronic visa (e-Visa) online through the Cambodian Ministry of Foreign Affairs & International Cooperation (website: www.mfaic.gov.kh). At present, visitors traveling on an e-Visa must enter Cambodia at either Phnom Penh International Airport or Siem Reap International Airport. Tourists on package tours will normally have their visas arranged by the tour operator.
Working Days Required Five from day of receipt of application form. Express visas are issued within 24 hours. E-Visas are issued within three working days; the visa is delivered electronically to the applicant's mailbox.
Warning Most visits to Cambodia are trouble-free, however public order is fragile. You should be aware of the global risk of indiscriminate terrorist attacks, which could be against civilian targets, including places frequented by foreigners. The greatest risks to travelers are from road traffic accidents, armed robbery after dark, landmines and unexploded ordnance in rural areas.
Outbreaks of avian influenza (bird flu) in Cambodia have resulted in a small number of human fatalities. As a precaution, travelers should avoid live animal markets, poultry farms and other places where they may come into close contact with domestic, caged or wild birds; and ensure poultry and egg dishes are thoroughly cooked.
This advice is based on information provided by the Foreign & Commonwealth Office in the UK. It is correct at time of publishing. As the situation can change rapidly, visitors are advised to contact the following organizations for the latest travel advice: